The wheel bearing is the centerpiece of the front axle. It allows the wheels to spin smoothly, while keeping them in line with the rest of the vehicle. A bad wheel bearing can cause steering problems, vibration and even tire wear. The best time to replace it is before it fails completely.
In this article, we’ll show you how to change a wheel bearing in your car yourself. This job requires some tools and mechanical knowledge. You should only attempt this project if you’re confident in your ability to use tools safely, and if you know what you’re doing when it comes to cars. If you’re not sure about any steps, ask for help from a friend or professional mechanic before proceeding further.
Use a floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle. Place jacks at each wheel, but do not put them under the frame rails. If you have safety stands instead of floor jacks, use those instead.
Jack up the car, place jack stands under the frame rails, and lower the car onto them. Support the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack or lift. Place a block of wood or a small stack of bricks between the jack and frame to prevent the suspension from being damaged.
To remove the rear wheel, you must first remove the tire and break caliper.
Remove the tire by loosening the lug nuts, then unscrewing the bolts on each side of the caliper. Remove the caliper from the car by removing its mounting bolts and sliding it off to one side. Remove the rotor, which is held in place by a nut on each side of it. once these items are removed, pull out on the axle and slide it out of its housing.
Now that you have removed your old bearing, apply grease to both sides of your new bearing before installing it in your car’s hub assembly.
The bearing retaining nut is located on the inner part of the hub. It is pressed into place and cannot be removed with a wrench or other tool. You will need to remove this bearing in order to replace your wheel bearings.
Remove the bearing retaining nut using an impact gun. This is a tool that uses high-pressure air to remove the nut from the hub. You can rent one at most auto parts stores for about $20, or buy one for about $50. The rental may be cheaper if you only have 1 or 2 nuts to remove, but if you plan on doing more work on your car it may be worth purchasing one in order to save yourself some time and effort in the future.
To use an impact gun on this nut, simply attach it to your stubby ratchet and tighten it until it breaks free from the thread lock compound that holds it in place inside the hub assembly.
The axle is the part of a wheel that connects it to the car’s drivetrain. The wheel hub assembly is the part of the car that houses both the brake rotor and the wheel studs, which are used to mount wheels to your vehicle.
To remove an axle from a wheel hub assembly, first remove any lug nuts on your wheel using a socket wrench or ratchet. once all of the lug nuts are removed, you should be able to pull off the wheel from your vehicle by hand. Remove any brake caliper brackets that may be connected to the hub assembly if they are sticking out too far in order to get better access to the axle nut or bolt.
Strike the axle with a hammer in order to loosen it from its mounting point inside of your hub assembly. After striking it several times, use your hands to turn it until it breaks free from its mounting point inside of your hub assembly.
This is a very important step. If the hub is not seated firmly on the axle, it will not spin freely and you’ll need to take it off and start over.
To seat the hub, hit the bottom of the new hub until it is firmly seated on the axle.
If your wheel has been disassembled before, you may have removed some of the rubber seals from between the spokes and rim. These are important for preventing water from getting into your bearings and destroying them. If you are missing any seals, you can purchase replacements at any bike shop or online retailer.
The bearing retaining nut is the nut that secures the bearing to the spindle. It is made of hardened steel and has a spring washer that tends to keep it from coming loose under normal conditions. If you have a press-fit bearing (a single piece of metal), use an air hammer to drive in the new nut. If you have a threaded bearing (two pieces), use an impact wrench with a socket on it.
To install the bearing retaining nut, first clean off any old grease from around its threads and from inside the hub bore. Then place it in position with its flange facing outward and its shoulder against the back side of the hub bore. Install a large diameter washer behind it followed by a lock washer and another large diameter washer on top of them both. Tighten down all three together until they are snug but not too tight as this could cause damage to other parts of your wheel hub assembly if they are overtightened!
If you have a disc brake system, align the calipers so that they’re even with each other, then tighten them down. If you have drum brakes, tighten the bolts until they are snug.
If you’re installing new rotors, add anti-seize compound to the threads to prevent corrosion.
The interval between replacements will depend on how much mileage you have put on them. If you don’t know when they were last replaced, then it’s probably a good idea to get them checked out as soon as possible. When you replace a wheel bearing, it’s usually best not just to replace one at a time — both sides should be replaced at once so that there’s no chance of uneven wear between them (which could lead to failure).
This article has given complete information about how to change a wheel bearing. If any individual will observe this process then definitely it will be a great help for them. The first step is to open the hubcap and take out the lock ring. After that take out the axle nut by using wrench whereas preferably use your hands to turn out the axle shaft even if its tight. After that you must flip over the hub by making use of a hammer, in order to free it of the retaining ring. Then place brake drum puller on the studs and apply pressure on it until it is free from the hub.
UCTH213-40J-300 with Setscrew(inch)
CNSORDERNO: Normal-duty(2)
TOGN: UCTH213-40J-300
SDI: B-R1/8
SD: 2 1/2
UCTH212-39J-300 with Setscrew(inch)
CNSORDERNO: Normal-duty(2)
TOGN: UCTH212-39J-300
SDI: B-R1/8
SD: 2 7/16
UCTH212-38J-300 with Setscrew(inch)
CNSORDERNO: Normal-duty(2)
TOGN: UCTH212-38J-300
SDI: B-R1/8
SD: 2 3/8
UCTH212-36J-300 with Setscrew(inch)
CNSORDERNO: Normal-duty(2)
TOGN: UCTH212-36J-300
SDI: B-R1/8
SD: 2 1/4
UCTH211-35J-300 with Setscrew(inch)
CNSORDERNO: Normal-duty(2)
TOGN: UCTH211-35J-300
SDI: B-R1/8
SD: 2 3/16
UCTH211-34J-300 with Setscrew(inch)
CNSORDERNO: Normal-duty(2)
TOGN: UCTH211-34J-300
SDI: B-R1/8
SD: 2 1/8